The Pampered Pullets Farm
2010
Duckwing OEG Bantam Rooster
the eggs in her system
that she will lay in her
lifetime.
A hen will crow. In the absence of a rooster in the flock, many times a hen will take over the roll as leader and begin to crow.
How To's, What For's and Why Not's
Bantam Weight Chart
Though we do not specialize in bantam breeds, we are asked
many times as to what are the weight classifications used in
bantam breeds. This is what we found to be the standard.
ROOSTERS HENS
Micro - under 9 ounces Micro - under 8 ounces
A - 9.1 to 13 ounces A - 8.1 to 12 ounces
B -13.1 to 16 ounces B - 12.1 to 15 ounces
C -16.1 to 19 ounces C - 15.1 to 17 ounces
D - over 19.1 ounces D - over 17.1 ounces
Breaking A Broody
If you have a hen that is going, or has gone, broody and you want to break her of it, there are a couple of methods that you can try. First, place the hen in an area where she cannot see or get to her old nest. Obviously provide her with food and water. Leave her in this place for 4 or 5 days. Or, if you have a very stubborn hen, it will be necessary to keep her in a wire bottom cage. The cool air on her underside will usually cause her to give up after a few days.
Cheap Range Feeder
A Brooding Unit for a Small Number of Birds
The principles of brooding are the same regardless of the number of chicks in the flock. Whether there is one chick or 1,000, they have to be kept warm, well fed and watered, protected from predators and dampness, and provided with plenty of fresh air without being exposed to drafts. This unit, when used in a warm place such as the home or school, will do the job.
Here is a plan for a simple brooding unit in which 10 to 12 chicks could be kept for 7 to 10 days or 10 to 12 quail for about 3 weeks.
Equipment needed
Cardboard box approximately 28 inches long, 25 inches wide, and 14 inches high
Gooseneck lamp with 40, 60, or 75 watt bulb.
Water fountain
Pebbles, marbles, or 1/2" screen
Feeder
Welded-wire cover for the box
Litter for floor of box - wood shavings, sawdust, peat moss, sand, or other appropriate material
The drawing is a cardboard box adapted for a brooding unit. The size and shape is not important so long as it is large enough to properly house the chicks and the equipment needed to take care of them.
The gooseneck lamp provides the heat, 95 degrees F. A 60 or 75 watt bulb normally provides enough warmth. The neck of the lamp can be bent to move the bulb -- the source of heat -- closer to or away from the chick to adjust the heat. If the side of the box is very high, a slit can be made in it so that the neck of the lamp and the lamp shade can be bent into the box.
When chicks are cold, they huddle together and "cheep" plaintively. When they are too warm, they stand with wings partially outspread, beak open, throat rapidly pulsating, and in essence pant like a dog. The walls of the box keep drafts off the chicks and confine the chicks, too.
Two to three inches of litter are needed on the floor of the box. This serves as insulation and as an absorptive material. Materials such as peat moss, sawdust, shavings, straw, or sand can be used. Never place birds, especially young ones, on a smooth surface. They cannot grip a slippery surface, and their legs tend to go out to the side. This disjoints the legs and cripples the chicks. This condition is commonly called "spraddle leg."
The brooding unit should contain at least one waterer and one feeder. Place the waterer on a wooden block or stand to help keep the litter out of the water.
Important: Place pebbles or marbles in a water dish or a screen on it so the chicks cannot get wet. They should be able to get their beaks in the water, and that's all. Feeding and watering equipment can be obtained from feed stores, hatcheries, and farm supply stores. Feed can be obtained at feed or farm supply stores. Chickens should be fed chick starter; quail should be fed game bird starter or turkey mash. If these are not available, some of the newer high-protein, vitamin, and mineral cereals for human consumption may be satisfactory. Feed and water chicks as soon as they are transferred from the incubator to the brooder.
Place pebbles or marbles in a water dish or a screen on it so the chicks cannot get wet. They should be able to get their beaks in the water, and that's all. Feeding and watering equipment can be obtained from feed stores, hatcheries, and farm supply stores. Feed can be obtained at feed or farm supply stores. Chickens should be fed chick starter; quail should be fed game bird starter or turkey mash. If these are not available, some of the newer high-protein, vitamin, and mineral cereals for human consumption may be satisfactory. Feed and water chicks as soon as they are transferred from the incubator to the brooder.Finally, after the chicks have been put in the brooding unit, cover the unit with welded-wire screen. This will keep the chicks in and predators, such as cats and dogs, out. The illustration shows a 1" by 1" welded-wire screen. Other sizes from 1/4" x 1/4" to 1" x 1/4" mesh can be used.
If you do all these things, you will have a comfortable home for the baby chicks. Then, you must follow through to be sure that they are kept warm and well fed. This means checking the feeders, waterers, and the heat every morning, noon, and before you leave the school.
This materials was taken in part from materials prepared by E. A. Schano, Cornell University.
